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Herenkamerjas of Japonsche rock

Anoniem1725 - 1775
Herenkamerjas of Japonsche rock

Herenkamerjas of Japonsche rock

From 1609, the Netherlands maintained exclusive trade relations with Japan for a period of almost 250 years. This made it possible to exchange gifts such as books and textiles. From the seventeenth century on, the so-called Japonsche rock (Japanese robe) was a much-loved garment. This comfortable dressing gown for gentlemen was originally worn only indoors or at informal events.

The form of the gown is derived from the traditional kimono with shawl collar, but it lacks the typical long sleeves. The padded dressing gown in the collection of the Centraal Museum is made of light-blue silk and is partly hand-painted and partly printed. The gown was probably decorated using the shiborizome (tie-dye) and katazome (stencil) techniques. For the latter technique, stencils cut from mulberry leaves are fixed to the textile. The textile is then coated with a paste of steamed rice flour and rice bran. The stencils are then removed and the textile dried and coated again, this time with a glue-like fluid obtained from soybeans. In Japanese, the combination of several techniques was poetically referred to as tsujigahana (‘flowers at crossings’). At first glance, the pattern of large and small flowers seems to repeat itself, but a closer look reveals that each flower is different and that various butterflies and dragonflies are depicted as well. One or two flowers can be identified with some certainty, such as the chrysanthemum and the Paulownia. The decoration also includes a single bolt of lightning, which is the only motif that has sharp edges.

Maker
Anoniem
Title
Herenkamerjas of Japonsche rock
Dating
1725 - 1775
Object number
8141
Materials
zijde, floszijde
Technique
zijde
Dimensions
  • hoogte 163 cm
  • breedte ca. 142 cm
  • diepte 3 cm
Acquisition
schenking (1937)
Associated subjects
Inscriptions and marks
:
Rights
Public domain
Documentation
De kleurrijke wereld van de VOC : nationaal jubileumboek VOC 1602-2002, red. Leo Akveld en Els M. Jacobs. met medewerking van peter Sigmond. met bijdragen van Leo Akveld ... [et al.], Thoth (2002), 192 p.
Global fashion local tradition : over de globalisering van mode, red. Jan Brand, José Teunissen ; auteurs Anne van der Zwaag ... [et al.], Terra (Warnsveld, 2005), 200 p.
Interwoven globe : the worldwide textile trade, 1500-1800, ed. by Amelia Peck ; with contr. by Amy Bogansky ... [et al.], The Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York, 2013) Yale University Press (New Haven), X, 350 p.
Asia in Amsterdam : The culture of luxury in the Golden Age, red. Karina H. Corrigan, Jan van Campen, Femke Diercks, Peabody Essex Museum, Salem, Massachusetts (Salem, 2015) Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam, 2015), 356 p.
Uit de Mode : collectie van het Centraal Museum, Voorw. Bart Rutten, tekst Ninke Bloemberg, Anne-Karlijn van Kesteren, Rosalie Sloof … [et al.], Centraal Museum (Utrecht, 2017), 142 p.
A Grand Tableau : Charles Le Brun's Portrait of the Jabach Family, Stephan Wolohojian, Melinda Watt, Michael Gallagher, The Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York, 2017), 48 p.
Centraal Museum Utrecht [topstukken; 2020], Voorw. Bart Rutten, Marco Grob, Jacqueline Rutten (prod.), Hans Schopping, Sheila Stafleu, Lotte Bont, Thomas de Bruin (red.), Centraal Museum (Utrecht, 2020), 208 p.
Global Wardrobe : De wereldwijde modeconnectie, Voorw. Benno Tempel, tekst Madelief Hohé, Daan van Dartel, Waanders (Zwolle, 2021) Kunstmuseum Den Haag (Den Haag, 2021), 144 p.
´De grootste sijn de beste´ : Diamanten en parels, Monique Rakhorst, (Kunstschrift, Jaargang: 59, Aflevering: 5, okt./nov. 2015), p. 46-51