Object
Kolder
Kolder
This gambeson is one of the few seventeenth-century garments in a Dutch museum collection. Leather or textile was a valuable possession for many, and for that reason often worn until threadbare, or it was reused. It is therefore quite exceptional that this thick leather gambeson has been preserved, and in such a good condition too.
This type of garment was mainly worn by horsemen, soldiers and sailors from the second half of the sixteenth century on. The thickness of the material protected the wearer against all forms of danger from the world around. The gambeson was sometimes worn in combination with a cuirass (a type of harness). There are dozens of paintings from that time showing people wearing this tunic.
A gambeson like this was always made of leather, but the model was nevertheless subject to fashion. Its longer front
panels allow us to date this exemplar to between 1660 and 1670. The long sleeves are remarkable. These are made of thinner leather than the rest, facilitating movement. The sleeves have deep incisions at the back. The lace closure of braided metal thread with silver fourragere pins running vertically down the front is purely decorative, as the coat has an inside hook-and-eye fastening, with hooks and eyes alternating to prevent the gambeson from falling open due to sudden movements.- Maker
- Anoniem
- Title
- Kolder
- Dating
- 1660 - 1670
- Object type
- herenkleding, jas, kolder
- Object number
- 4461
- Collection
- toegepaste kunst, kostuums
- Technique
- zeemleer, zilver
- Dimensions
- lengte midden achter 92 cm
- mouwlengte 50 cm
- rugbreedte 43 cm
- hoogte cm
- breedte cm
- diepte cm
- Acquisition
- bruikleen# (1923)
- Acquisition credit
- bruikleen van particuliere collectie
- Inscriptions and marks
- :
- Rights
- Public domain
- Documentation
- Michaelina Wautier, ed. by Gerlinde Gruber, Katlijne Van der Stighelen and Julien Domercq, Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien (Wenen, 2025) Royal Academy of Arts (Londen, 2025), 190 p.
- Mode in het Centraal Museum, (Bulletin : Nederlandse Vereniging voor Kostuum, Kant, Mode en Streekdracht, Jaargang: 16, Aflevering: 4, december 1999), p. 9
- Catalogus van het Museum van Oudheden [1904], supplement
- Mode en kostuums, Hanneke Adriaans, Saskia Kuus, Centraal Museum (Utrecht, 1996), 647 p.
- Uit de Mode : collectie van het Centraal Museum, Voorw. Bart Rutten, tekst Ninke Bloemberg, Anne-Karlijn van Kesteren, Rosalie Sloof … [et al.], Centraal Museum (Utrecht, 2017), 142 p.
- Exposities. Mode in het Centraal Museum, Anoniem, (Bulletin : Nederlandse Vereniging voor Kostuum, Kant, Mode en Streekdracht, Aflevering: 4; 16, 1999, dec.), p. 9
- Opmerkelijke stukken. De kostuumcollectie in een nieuwe jas, M. van Dongen, (Museumtijdschrift [Vitrine], Aflevering: 7; 12, 1999-11), p. 40-43
- Kolders : van modieus militair kledingstuk tot slagveldreliek, Eveline Sint Nicolaas en Harm Stevens, (The Rijksmuseum Bulletin, Jaargang: 54, Aflevering: 3), p. 266 - 289, 331 - 333
