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Damesgilet 'Stockman'

Damesgilet 'Stockman'

With her Stockman gilet, Margiela plays with the imagery of the sewing workshop and haute couture. The sleeveless vest closely resembles a linen torso, an artisan tailor's 'mannequin'. The high neckline has size 42 on it, and 'SEMI COUTURE' and 'PARIS' are stamped at the bottom of the front panels. The design fits within the conceptual thinking of the enigmatic Martin Margiela, one of the famous 'Antwerp Six' fashion designers of the 1980s. [text 2023]Maison Martin Margiela’s iconic Stockman waistcoat plays with the essentials of the sewing room, where the dressmaker’s dummy is indispensable. This waistcoat has a striking resemblance to the linen dressmaker’s dummy used by a tailor (and also for this exhibition). The high neck is marked with the size 42. ‘SEMI COUTURE’ and ‘PARIS’ are printed at the bottom of each front panel. There are more references to haute couture and the art of craftsmanship. The design is consistent with the conceptual thought patterns of the mysterious Margiela (1957). More of his designs are showcased in Out of Fashion.
Title
Damesgilet 'Stockman'
Dating
1997 (zomer)
Object type
dameskleding, vest, gilet
Object number
28346

Martin Margiela

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Materials
linnen, katoen
Technique
linnen, metaal, katoen
Dimensions
  • confectiemaat 38
  • hoogte cm
  • breedte cm
  • diepte cm
Acquisition
aankoop (1998)
Associated subjects
Inscriptions and marks
merk in binnenzijde hals, m.a. (label): Margiela label (wit blanco label) (label aan buitenkant zichtbaar met vier steekjes vastgezet), opschrift voorkant onder halssluiting (gestempeld): 42, opschrift voorkant, onderzijde (gestempeld): SEMI COUTURE // PARIS // BREVETE S.G.E.G. // 35059, opschrift achterzijde, m.o. (gestempeld): PARIS // BREVETE S.G.E.G. // 35059, label binnenin: MADE // IN // ITALY // 42, label binnenin: 100% UNO-LIN // LINEN-LEINEN // [wasmerkjes] // MADE IN ITALY [en] 100 % COTONE-COTON // COTTON-BAUMWOLLE // INTERNO-INTERIEUR // INSIDE-INNEN // MADE IN ITALY
Rights
Collectie Centraal Museum Utrecht
Centraal Museum Utrecht [topstukken; 2020], Voorw. Bart Rutten, Marco Grob, Jacqueline Rutten (prod.), Hans Schopping, Sheila Stafleu, Lotte Bont, Thomas de Bruin (red.), Centraal Museum (Utrecht, 2020), 208 p.